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| Identify a sick Bird..... |
| Most disease in caged birds is directly or indirectly
related to malnutrition and stress. Malnutrition most often stems from
what the bird eats, rather than how much it eats. Most caged birds are
offered enough food, but they do not receive enough of the proper
foods and in the proper proportions. Stress results from any condition
that compromises a bird's state of well-being. Examples include poor
husbandry, inadequate diet, rapid temperature changes, and trauma.
All owners of caged birds must understand that birds tend to "hide"
signs of illness. Birds can compensate for serious internal disease in
such a way that they appear healthy externally. It is theorized that
evolution has "taught" birds to hide signs of illness to avoid being
harassed and possibly killed by other birds in the same flock.
Because of this disease-masking tendency, by the time a bird owner
recognizes illness in a pet bird, the bird may have been sick for 1-2
weeks.
Therefore, one cannot afford to take a "wait and see" approach and
hope the bird improves. Be observant and act promptly. Learn to look
for subtle signs of illness, and take special note of changes in the
routine and habits of your pet bird. Seek veterinary assistance
promptly if you suspect illness.
Following is a list of signs of illness easily recognizable by the
concerned bird owner. Alone or in combination, they signify potential
illness in your bird.
Signs of Illness
-- Discharge from the eyes
-- Change in clarity or color of the eyes
-- Closing of the eyes
-- Swelling around the eyes
-- Discharge from the nostrils
-- Obstructed nostrils
-- Soiling of feathers on head or around nostrils
-- Sneezing
-- Inability to manipulate food within the mouth
-- Reduced appetite or not eating at all
-- Fluffed-up feathers
-- Inactivity
-- Droopy wings
-- Decreased preening and feather maintenance
-- Break in the bird's routine
-- Change in or no vocalization (may be serious)
-- Weight loss
-- Equilibrium problems (very serious!)
-- Inability to perch (bird on cage bottom)
-- Limping or not bearing weight on 1 leg
-- Swollen feet or joints
-- Change in quality or quantity of droppings
-- Open-mouthed breathing when at rest (very serious!)
-- Tail pumping (rhythmic back & forth motion of tail when resting)
-- Lumps or masses anywhere on the body
-- Bleeding (always an emergency situation, regardless of the origin)
If you suspect illness in your bird, do not delay in making an
appointment with your veterinarian. Either transport your bird to the
doctor's office within its cage or use some other suitable container
(smaller cage, pet carrier, box). Never visit the veterinarian with
your bird perched on your shoulder. This method does not provide
enough protection for your pet.
Whatever container you choose should be covered to help minimize the
stress to your sick bird during its visit. If you take your bird to
the veterinarian in its own cage, do not clean it first. The material
you discard could represent valuable information to the veterinarian.
After a sick bird has been initially treated by a veterinarian, home
care is very important. Sick birds must be encouraged to eat and must
be kept warm.
Illness can cause significant weight loss in a matter of days,
especially if the bird stops eating. If this happens, the patient must
be hospitalized.
However, even a sick bird with a "healthy appetite" can close
substantial weight because of the energy drain caused by the illness.
As a general rule of thumb, any caged bird that appears ill to its
owner is seriously ill. One day of illness for a bird is roughly
equivalent to 7 days of illness for a person. The tendency for a pet
bird owner in this situation is to first seek advice from pet stores
and there purchase antibiotics and other medication for their sick pet
bird. With very few exceptions, these non-prescribed products are
worthless. They allow the sick bird to become even sicker, and greatly
compromise the results of diagnostic tests that the veterinarian may
require to properly diagnose and treat the patient. Contact your
veterinarian at the slightest sign of illness in your bird.
Supplemental heat (space heater, heated room, heating pad under the
cage bottom or wrapped around the cage, heat lamp) is vital for a sick
bird. It is especially necessary if the bird's feathers are fluffed
up. Provide just enough heat so that the feather posture appears
normal. Overheating the patient must be avoided at all costs.
Heat-stressed birds pant, hold their wings away from the body, depress
their feathers lose to the body, and appear anxious and agitated. Heat
stroke and death can result if the bird continues to be overheated.
The environmental temperature should be kept at
80-95 F for sick birds. The patient's cage should be covered (top,
back and
sides) during its convalescence.
If a bird refuses to crack seeds or eat other foods that require a
great deal of work, offer hulled or sprouted seeds or other "easy"
foods, such as warm cereal, cooked rice, cooked pasta, vegetables,
applesauce and other fruit sauces, and peanut butter. Remember, birds
that refuse to eat must be hospitalized. Few people can successfully
force-feed a sick bird at home.
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| Box Turtle General Information..... |
| NATURAL DIET
As with most captive reptiles, most medical conditions for which box
turtles are presented to veterinarians result from malnutrition,
either directly or indirectly. Box turtles are omnivorous. They will
eat whole animals, such as meal worms, snails, slugs, earthworms and
other invertebrates that may live in the humus and leaf litter in
whichbox turtles normally hunt for food in their natural habitat.
Box turtles also readily accept fruits, berries and certain
vegetables.
FEEDING
Box turtles can be successfully raised by feeding a diet of whole
animal substitutes, such as Reptile-Fare (Reliable Protein Products,
Los Angeles, CA 90048), low-fat soft dog food (Cycle 4, Gaines
Foods, St. Anne, IL 60964), or low-fat semi-moist dog food (Gainesburgers,
Gaines Foods, St.
Anne, IL 60964). Fruit (berries of all types, bananas, pears,
peaches, papayas, guavas), vegetables (chopped, thawed, frozen mixed
vegetables, squash, yams) and edible mushrooms should be provided as
well. The fruits and vegetables provide additional vitamins,
minerals and moisture, as well as necessary roughage. Many hobbyists
believe a ratio of 1/2 to 2/3 whole animals and/or whole animal
substitutes to 1/3 to 1/2 fruit and vegetable matter offers the best
results. Fruit-loving box turtles can be persuaded to eat a wider
variety of foods by mixing soft dog food with pureed or chopped
fruit. Other foods can be judiciously added to the aforementioned
items, including cottage cheese, chopped hard- boiled or scrambled
egg, grated cheese and yogurt.
A completely natural diet (one that a wild box turtle would select
for
itself) can never be exactly duplicated under conditions of
captivity. For this reason, and because the exact nutritional
requirements of box turtles are unknown, vitamin-mineral
supplementation is advised. Powdered supplements intended for
reptiles (Reptical and Vita-Life, Terra-Fauna Products, Mountain
View,CA 94042; Reptovite, Verners Pet Products, Long Beach, CA
90807) should be sprinkled each day over food moist enough to ensure
adherence of the product. We prefer the powdered
vitamin-mineral-amino acid supplement, Nekton-Rep (Nekton Products,
W.
Germany) and believe it to be superior to the similar products
listed above.
ENVIRONMENTAL TEMPERATURE AND FREQUENCY OF FEEDING
Box turtles can be fed daily, though many hobbyists feed them every
other day or 2-3 times weekly. They will not eat at low
environmental temperatures and likewise cannot digest food well at
low temperatures. Consistently warm environmental temperatures must
be maintained, especially at night, for box turtles kept in colder
climates, or for those not allowed to hibernate.
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| Water Turtle..... |
| Various species of water turtles are kept as pets in
the United States. Most of those purchased by hobbyists originate
from the southern and eastern regions of the U.S. By law, imported
turtles of most species must be at least 4 inches long. The trade in
exotic turtles has been increasing in recent years, especially in
countries with poor animal protection laws and abundant turtle
populations.
Turtles inhabit all parts of the world with a temperate to warm
climate and are especially abundant in the tropics and subtropics.
Water turtles are found in a wide variety of habitats, including
ponds, swamps, small pools thick with vegetation, lakes of all
sizes, large streams and rivers.
All water turtles share some obvious physical characteristics, such
as a top and bottom shell and webbed feet. Many have developed
specific adaptions to cope with specific environmental conditions.
The Diamondback Terrapin, for example, is confined in its geographic
distribution to the brackish water of the coastal eastern U.S.
(brackish water has a salt content between that of fresh and sea
water). The Malaysian Snail-Eating Turtle survives well in its
environment on a diet of mainly snails.
The Mata Mata is an unusual-looking turtle that resembles the
rotting vegetation found on the bottoms of the relatively shallow
lakes and rivers in which it lives. It is a poor swimmer and rarely
leaves it aquatic habitat, except to lay eggs. The Mata Mata rests
motionless on the bottom, well camouflaged among the decomposing
vegetation, and lies in wait for its prey. The turtle can breathe
during these long intervals through a long, narrow nose (similar to
a snorkel), the end of which just breaks the surface of the water.
When a small fish or other prey animal swims by, the Mata Mata opens
its mouth and suck its prey in, all in a split second.
The juvenile Alligator Snapping Turtle's olive green-brown color
camouflages it well against the bottom of rivers in which it lives.
To attract prey within striking distance, it opens its mouth and
wiggles its unique bright pink, slender tongue. As a small fish
moves in for a closer look, it is quickly trapped in the turtle's
jaws. The adult Alligator Snapping Turtle, the largest freshwater
turtle in the world, can reach 200 lb or more, and can eat an entire
duck in one gulp!
Hobbyists should study and thoroughly familiarize themselves with
the natural history and habits of any turtle species they intend to
acquire before they select their new pet. This "homework" helps
ensure the turtle will thrive in captivity.
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| Snakes..... |
| Snakes are elongated, legless animals with dry,
scale-covered skin. Their skin is unusually elastic, which allows it
to stretch when large prey items are swallowed. Snakes are rather
unique because of these features and because they lack moveable
eyelids and external ear openings. Snakes may be only a few inches
to several yards long.
Snakes inhabit a wide variety of ecologic habitats: land, trees,u
nderground, fresh water, and salt water. They are found on every
continent except Antarctica. No native snakes are found on the
islands of Hawaii, Iceland, New Zealand and Ireland.
SELECTING A PET SNAKE
Some snakes are rare, endangered and protected by law. These snakes
may only be kept by zoos and legitimate herpetologists with the
appropriate permits.
This is also the case with venomous snakes, which should not, under
any circumstances, be kept by the average hobbyist.
The most common snakes kept by enthusiasts are the many and varied
constrictor species (boas, pythons, rat and milk snakes, etc) and
the racer, gopher and garter species. The husbandry and dietary
requirements for these types of snakes vary considerably.
Furthermore, some of the same species (notably the boa constrictors
and pythons) reach very large sizes in captivity, and their
considerable space requirements must be anticipated.
Usually, an individual eager to own a snake already has a species
preference in mind because of some familiarity with it (friend owns
a snake of the same species, etc) or because of an inexplicable
attraction to a species'
physical appearance, size, activity or habits. Before you acquire a
snake, you should carefully consider the following recommendations:
- Research the major husbandry requirements of the snake and
determine whether or not you can successfully meet them now and in
the future.
Husbandry requirements include dietary, environmental (living space,
temperature, humidity,lighting, etc) and sanitation considerations.
- Research the temperament of the species. If you intend to enjoy
your snake primarily by observing it within its enclosure and rarely
by handling it, this becomes a less important consideration. If you
intend to regularly handle the snake, however, you must be able to
do so with minimal stress and injury to both the snake and yourself.
Snake temperaments vary among species and among individuals of the
same species. Certain snake species almost always retain a gentle,
docile nature when they are raised from infancy(boa constrictors).
If fact, a healthy young boa constrictor makes the most suitable pet
among the tropical snake species available. Other species (the
larger pythons) are unpredictable and tend to be quite pugnacious as
they mature, whether or not they are handled frequently. Reticulated
and Burmese pythons are especially unpredictable when they are
anticipating being fed. Snakes of these types, especially those
handled infrequently, become conditioned to associating feeding with
human contact and often cannot distinguish the difference between
these 2 situations. The small Ball python has the most predictable
and even temperament of all of the python species.
- Some species (anacondas) rarely develop temperaments suitable for
captivity. Wild-caught adults of all species generally make
unsuitable pets because they resist taming. One notable exception to
this is the California Rosy boa. Even when obtained as an adult,
they usually have a very shy, docile nature.
- Select a snake that can feed without difficulty and one that is
eating regularly.
- Select a snake that appears healthly in all respects. Avoid
choosing an unthrifty-looking snake out of sympathy with the idea
that you can "nurse"
the snake back to health. Many of these snakes have suffered
irreparable internal damage and cannot be rehabilitated.
- Avoid selecting a snake belonging to a species that is notoriously
difficult to keep in captivity, requires difficult or elaborate
environmental setups, or spends most of its time hiding or burrowed
underground.
- Avoid selecting a poisonous or venomous species. Only the very
experienced herpetologist should attempt to keep these types of
snakes in captivity.
State and local laws prohibit possession of venomous snakes except
by experienced individuals holding legitimate permits.
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| Information regarding your pets is meant as general information.
Our goal is to help in general situations and is not meant as an
absolute especially when evaluating the health and well being of your
pet. We are not Veterinarians nor is this intended as veterinary
advise. We highly recommend that you speak with your Veterinarian,
animal specialist, or Veterinary clinic. |
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